NYFW 2019. RUNWAY REPORT.
Monday, February 4th marked the start of the most important and exciting week of the year. FASHION WEEK. 2019 just might hold the title for most interesting fashion week schedule yet. In past years, NYFW and NYFW Men’s were very clearly separated into two different weeks. This year, both womenswear and menswear will be debuted from February 4th until Thursday, February 14th. Prepare for overlapping runways and even co-ed shows—Tom Ford’s Wednesday show featured both female and male models. Victoria Beckham, Escada, and other names we normally see announced they will not hold any formal shows this NYFW. Rodarte’s collection premiered in Los Angeles the 5th, unofficially starting NYFW for womenswear. But no need to stress— designer’s Fall/Winter 2019 collections are looking promising so far! Below, you’ll find a thorough runway report of all major designers’s shows (focused on womenswear, of course). Make sure to check back in for updates as the week progresses. Get ready for an electrifying and inspiring week…and prepare your closet in these months ahead of the upcoming trends!
Kate & RCK
Masters in actualizing theatrical fashion fantasy, Kate and Laura Mulleavy’s February 5th show proved to be no different in this aspect. After the unfortunate weather during their latest show that took place in a Graveyard, Rodarte took precautions, revealing their work in a heavenly flower-filled and sun-lit greenhouse in Los Angeles. The designs were of equal frivolity. The colors were bold, the silhouettes theatrical, the designs playful, and the models lavishly accessorized. Puff shoulders and ruffles were exaggerated and perfectly cinched by belts and sashes that illustrated ruche was not limited. The designers clearly sought inspiration from the extravagance of 1930s-1970s costumes. Combined with bows and butterflies and neon tights, Rodarte created a fantastical childlike illusion that might have triumphed as NYFW’s most galvanizing exhibition. Butterfly hats off to the Mulleavy’s. Talk about a tough act to follow!
On February 7th, Ralph Lauren’s Spring/Summer 2019 Ready-To-Wear collection creatively debuted in “Ralph’s coffee shop”, constructing a cozy yet chic environment. Glimmering gold and black and white combined with Lauren’s irresistible simplicity defined the series of elegant evening gowns and crafted looks, staying true to the brand’s curated and disciplined style. His magic comes from this well-defined sophisticated aesthetic that inspires you to cultivate your own polished personal brand. Maybe I should formulate my own color palette and construct a closet of only clean lines to obtain this dignified simplicity??? Envisioning Bella Hadid flaunting a golden textured gown with a perfect silhouette while descending a grand stair case into a Parisian café gives me goosebumps. Stunning and perfectly executed, Ralph Lauren has done it again.
Oh how lucky we are to live in an era of Tom Ford, one of Fashion’s greatest, a man who practically invented the 90s trends were all so crazed about again. And Tom Ford knows this. In his Autumn/Winter 2019 collection, Tom Ford deviated from his historical flashy and fabulous avant-garde creations, shocking his audience. In post-show interviews, Tom Ford credited it to what he called a “search for security.”
“I’ve never really been a designer who’s talked about a moment in time, how that’s influenced what I design, but you can’t escape the news…I feel frustrated and agitated and exhausted. And I don’t want to wear anything particularly challenging or anything particularly aggressive.”
This attitude translated into his collection through his glorified tailoring. As the master of suits, Tom Ford did not come up short-handed, but this time there were no eccentric animal prints and bold colors. In place of crisp collared shirts and ties now lay sweatshirts and tiny scarfs. This was no Tom foolery (hehe) but perhaps a reflection of his perspective of the real-world. Most models hid their hands in the pockets of oversized and cuffed satin trousers or sweatshirts in a way that relaxed the luxury of his craftsmanship. Hoods and hats carefully cloaked models’s faces. Maybe relaxing the clean lines and structure of silk were calculated and intended to services as a microcosm of the real-world, with the pairing of hoodies and unbuttoned shirts? The more neutral-toned series paid homage to the glory of Ford’s 90s days, Gigi Hadid even showcased a red velvet suit mirroring one from Tom Ford’s Gucci. Perhaps most interesting were the platform heels clad with rhinestones, almost serving as a nod to the greater simplicity of his 2019 collection. Fur coats, silk satins, and chain-link details demonstrated Tom Ford’s usual artistic extravagance. Tom Ford brought the real-world and the 90s back to the runway and I’m all here for it.
Hello 90s. Rightfully placed after Tom Ford, Collina Strada’s newest collection embodied the 90s with tie-dye, biker shorts, bodysuits, slip dresses, spaghetti straps, and the colors and patterns of the decade. The collection creates a colorful street-style grunge aesthetic. This whimsical and more casual direction mirror’s Tom’s real-world inspiration. Designer Hillary Taymour is honest and outspoken, giving a voice and purpose to all her designs and this collection was no exception. She utilized this platform to promote her message of sustainability as displayed by models carrying tupperware and reusable water bottles. These models did not have faces perfectly plastered with luxury makeup or hair that only a professional could do. Some would stop to drink and eat out of their tupperware, one even carried a small child, breaking the barriers between the runway and the audience and dissolving the unobtainable royalty of Runway perfection. 75% of Taymour’s fabric was deadstock fabric, and paired with the cuts and lines of her designs, concocted this wondrous image of recycled fashion as if one had just went to Goodwill and crafted a designer outfit. Chunky sneakers and sheer tie-dye made this collection cool and effortless. Taymour proves her intelligence and resourcefulness in this edgy blend of fashion and environmental activism.
NYC Designer Rachel Comey’s idea for her Fall/Winter 2019 collection came from her desire to explore intergenerational relations, stemming from her new personal connections built with older women she described as rewarding. This sentiment was reflected through the age-inclusive models and timeless designs. Though this collection is more simplistic compared to her previous resort collection and others, this is Comey’s strength. Creating versatile, quality pieces that won’t go out of style, touching on the whole Millenial “Burn-out” theory.
This intergenerational togetherness and burn-out idea could be seen in her ageless designs and quirky colors and prints. There seemed to be an emphasis on comfort, a highlight being the quilted jackets and paints that were essentially wearable and fashionable duvet covers. For those mornings where you can’t seem to get out of bed, these are the perfect pieces to maintain that sleepy comfort without sacrificing comfort. Orange red and pink gave respect to Comey’s anti-burnout ideology, and her lively embellishments, contrasting textures, and intricate comic prints livened this sense of ageless style. Comey also notably played with reusable fashion, constructing pieces from recycled water bottles and more. Known for her shoes, Comey revealed her new collection will be made in Italy instead of Peru, meaning a slight increase in price (though she believes her customer demographic will not be largely affected). The pointed toe zip-up booties were definitely a favorite. Paper-beg jeans and skirts gave a fun peplum effect and her knits and outwear were cozy chic and fun. The 90s also made an appearance with Green and blue acid-wash jeans.
TOMO KOIZUMI AT MARC JACOBS MADISON AVENUE
“The show with the big dresses.”
If you thought Rodarte was glamorously ostentatious, Tomo Koizumu at Marc Jacobs will have you literally hyper-ventilating. HOLY SH*T. Marc Jacobs has been one of my favorite designers for a long time, with his bold colors, prints, and silhouettes — his style is just so FUN and I can’t get enough. So of course I support any designer he does. Self-taught Tokyo costume designer Tomo Koizumi’s debut show was honestly probably the best moment of NYFW. No ruffles were left behind. Katie Grand discovered him on Instagram and brought him to Marc Jacobs in Soho days before he would make his grand entrance into NYFW. His inspiration rooted from all over, from Capucci to hanawa, a Japanese funnery banner. He believes women can be cute and strong, an ideology that seems fitting to Marc Jacob’s designs as well.
His collection was straight out of a fairytale with rainbow cloud-like gowns of never-ending tulle worn by an impressive group of models. His magical show served as a fresh reminder that the runway can be fantastically fun and inspired. The silhouettes vastly differed, showcasing Koizumi’s skill. I have no other words…just look through the pictures… Thank you Tomo Koizumi, thank you.
“It’s about these dualities: How can they live not in contrast but in harmony?”
Unconvential designers Beckett Fogg and Piotrek Panszczyk’s eclectic designs gave us so much night-out inspiration heavily inspired by ‘60s couture. Biggest takeaway: I need to wear more rhinestones. On my shoes, in my hair, jewelry, purses, lining and strapping my dresses—everything I own should be clad with rhinestones. How did they make them look so sophisticated?!?
Funky silhouettes perfectly tailored, summery red tie-dye, exaggerated knitwear, huge logos, bold texts of protest… this show was an eclectic’s dream. There was so much meaning yet so much meaninglessness.
“We have quotes in the collection that are quite heavy, intense, almost like a protest song,” began Panszczyk, “but do we really mean anything with it? Maybe not.” (See the model holding plastic letters, maybe CD’s, with “soon” on her belt” and “apocalypse” in hand)